Tasting Tea

Drinking tea is a ritual in China.  When I was freezing cold riding down from Shangrila at 3500m to the start  of Tiger Leaping Gorge at 2200m, and there was fresh snow on the mountains - BRRRRR, I stopped at a petrol station for respite.  The men in the office inivited me in, made a brew and happily shared many cups of tea with me.  (The cups are small and you either sip or gulp in one mouthful)

I spent considerable time in this tea shop in Shuhe (near Lijiang) tasting different blends, quality and types of tea.  I left with "the best" black tea leaves from Yunnan - of course. 

The shop assistant (in green) had non existent English and called in the girl from the shop across the way to come and chat with me and explain the teas.  A fun way to while away the time.

Tea Leaves

One of the pleasures of travelling in Yunnan was tea.  There were many tea shops and hence tea leaves in Lijiang.

Naxi Women - A Matriachal Society

The Naxi, are one of the minority groups living in Yunnan region and Lijiang is  home to the majority of the 320,000 population.

As it is a cold climate, they wear  many layered, wool clothing.  

Women  traditionally wear  a long, unlined gown and a colorful, embroidered cape.  Under the gown the wear trousers,  or as in these photos they wear an apron over the trousers. 

Blue is a traditional colour and many women had blue hats and aprons.

 

 A black sheepskin cape is a distinctive feature of their costume.  It  has seven round designs embroidered on it to represent the stars. White and black are the main colors. White symbolizes the sky while black the earth. 

"Together, the sky, earth and stars that are sewn onto the Naxi woman's cape symbolize the industriousness of the Naxi women."

Traditionally the Naxi were a strictly matriarchal society with the women taking the dominant role in business and society. This tradition has been somewhat lost in mainstream Naxi culture today.

As a matriarchal society, the Naxi take a flexible approach to marriage and partnership. Women typically live separately from men, and take several partners. They also bear full responsibility for any children born, with little formal involvement of the father.

It is not just the children that are the responsibility of women. Property and valuable possession too belong to the women, and titles and positions of power pass through the female line.

 

   

Black Dragon Pool

Officially named as one of the best view points in China, Black Dragon Pool in Lijiang was a pleasant break from the hectic pace of the old town.  The gardens were beautiful - it would be gorgeous in autumn.  Lovely reflections in the lake, but unfortunately cloud covered the Jade Snows Dragon Mountains in the background.

The pool takes its name from an ancient legend. It’s said that once upon a time there were ten evil dragons that terrorised the land. One of the Eight Immortals of Chinese legends, jailed nine of the dragons in a tower, leaving only the youngest black dragon. The black dragon was forced to protect the land to keep its freedom, and still lives in the pool today.

The pool is divided into two parts by a white marble bridge, and despite the water being connected, the sides maintain different colours and the fish on either side refuse to swim to the opposite pool. Additionally, the pool has never dried up, even during the worst droughts.

Chairman Mao

I saw the Chairman on my last day in China .  This statue stands in a public square in Lijiang.

I liked the contrast of Mao, arm raised in a salute, standing in front of three huge cranes - symbols of modern China.

Few people mentioned the Cultural Revolution, those who did were apologetic. It seemed like a chapter of history they don't want to remember - many of course were not alive at the time.

Collecting Wood

As I struggled up the steep road near the end of my Tiger Leaping Gorge trek I saw this man head downhill with his chain saw at the back of his motor bike and then come back up again with his firewood loaded on.  A lovely location for this daily chore.

Much easier than putting in a back pack and walking up a hill (KEV!).

Tiger Leaping Gorge scenery was beautiful BUT...

I walked towards, then through this waterfall on the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.  

It was beautiful.  BUT the second photo shows the pipes and poles and powerlines that were behind me as I took the photo.

Tiger Leaping Gorge is definitely not a wilderness experience.  There were pipes along the trail in different places, including a huge white poly pipe in one place running down the slope to the river.  For the first half of the first day there was a constant pounding accompanying me from a quarry or mine on the slope on the other side of the gorge and at one stage I walked past the factory seen in the photo below.

 The lower walking track along the gorge is now a sealed high quality dual lane road. Tour de France quality switch back roads are being built to the villages I walked through so tourists can be delivered in minivans - they walk around, admire the view, take some photos and move on.